Saint James the Greater church

Saint James the Greater church stands in Metličany, a historic part of Nový Bydžov in eastern Bohemia, and ranks among the more distinctive Baroque buildings of the region. The single-nave brick church was built between 1768 and 1775 to a design by František Kerner, an architect from Hradec Králové, who is thought to have worked from earlier plans attributed to Kilián Ignác Dientzenhofer, one of the most celebrated names of Czech Baroque architecture. The building was commissioned by Benedictine monks from the Břevnov and Broumov monasteries, who owned the nearby Sloupno estate at the time — though an independent local parish was only established here in 1786.

How do you get there?

The church sits in Metličany, a district of Nový Bydžov that is an easy walk or short bike ride from the town centre. Nový Bydžov itself lies along the routes connecting Hradec Králové and Jičín, so driving from either town usually takes about 20–30 minutes. The site's coordinates are 50.24239, 15.50887 — worth entering directly into your navigation, since the church stands a little apart from the town's main streets.

What will you see?

The building is a textbook example of provincial Baroque church architecture: a single-nave interior laid out on an east-west axis, with a quadrilateral presbytery on the eastern end and a façade flanked by two low towers on the west. That layout — simpler than the grand churches of larger towns, but keeping the era's characteristic proportions and symmetry — makes the building a good representative of small-town Bohemian sacred architecture from the 18th century.

The biggest surprise for visitors is usually the interior decoration. The original, older ceiling paintings were replaced in 1898 with a new cycle by the local painter Ludvík Nejedlý. In the main nave he depicted the Transfiguration of Christ on Mount Tabor, showing Christ appearing to the apostles Peter, James and John — a fitting subject for a church dedicated to St. James. In the dome above the presbytery, he painted the Old Testament patriarchs Noah, Abraham, Isaac and Jacob, tying the whole scheme together into one coherent programme spanning both the Old and New Testaments.

Since 2008 the church has also housed the Gallery of St. James, giving the building a dual role today — part place of worship, part exhibition space. That combination is unusual for a small parish church and means a visit here can be paired with browsing whatever exhibition is currently on display, making it more rewarding than a typical village church that stays locked outside service hours.

When should you visit?

The painted interior is best appreciated in daylight, when natural light streams in through the nave windows, so a late-morning or early-afternoon visit works well. Because the building doubles as a gallery, opening hours can follow the exhibition schedule, so it is worth checking current details locally in Nový Bydžov before planning a longer trip. The Metličany area also makes a pleasant stop for a short walk through the historic part of town, whatever the season.

Frequently asked questions

Where exactly is Saint James the Greater church located? In Metličany, a historic district of Nový Bydžov in eastern Bohemia, at coordinates 50.24239, 15.50887.

Who designed the church? It was built between 1768 and 1775 under architect František Kerner of Hradec Králové, likely based on earlier plans by Kilián Ignác Dientzenhofer.

What is the main highlight inside? The 1898 ceiling paintings by Ludvík Nejedlý — the Transfiguration of Christ in the main nave and the Old Testament patriarchs in the presbytery dome.

Is there anything to see beyond the church interior itself? Yes — since 2008 the building has hosted the Gallery of St. James, so a visit can be combined with its current exhibitions.