Piz Medel

Piz Medel (3,210 m) is the top summit of the ridge running from the Lukmanier Pass to Crap la Crusch, in the Lepontine Alps. It rises above the municipality of Medel (Lucmagn) in the canton of Graubünden, right by the Ticino border, and is a classic glacier objective in the Surselva region.

Where is Piz Medel?

The peak sits on the Graubünden–Ticino border. The Medel valley leads up from Curaglia toward the mountains, while to the south of the ridge lies the Greina plain, an important crossing between the two cantons. The summit is at roughly 46.62° N, 8.91° E.

How do you climb Piz Medel?

The normal route is the Via Gletscher da Medel. It starts at the Medelserhütte, an SAC hut on the Fuorcla da Lavaz saddle at 2,524 m. From the hut you head southwest around the base of Fil Liung. Depending on glacier conditions, you either keep to scree close to Fil Liung or bear west onto steeper ice, which can be demanding when the glacier is bare. You then cross the fairly flat Glatscher da Medel plateau and join the east ridge for the final stretch to the top. The descent follows the same line.

The SAC route portal grades the climb F (I), with about 2–3 hours of ascent and around 710 m of height gain from the hut. It is a short alpine outing, but it crosses a glacier, so crampons, a rope and glacier-travel skills are needed. The first ascent was made on 16 August 1865 by Jules Jacot and Gottlieb Stuber with guides Virgil Pally and Peter Sulzer.

Where do you stay and start?

The base is the Medelserhütte, which sits on the Greina trekking route from Curaglia to Vals. On the Ticino side, Capanna Scaletta is an alternative; both huts are about 2.5 km from the summit as the crow flies. Most parties sleep at the hut so they can reach the glacier early in the morning.

When should you go?

The climbing season runs through summer and into early autumn, once winter snow has thinned and crevasses are easier to read. The mountain is also a ski-touring target: published descriptions give around 1,200 m of ascent and 860 m of descent, roughly 6.5 hours, difficulty 3 on a six-point scale, with a night at the Medelserhütte. Glacier conditions change from year to year, so check the current SAC route description and the forecast before setting out.

Frequently asked questions

Is Piz Medel difficult? The normal route is technically easy (F, I) but crosses a glacier, so it requires proper equipment and experience in roped travel.

How long is the climb from the hut? About 2–3 hours up, with around 710 m of ascent.

Where do you start? At the Medelserhütte (2,524 m) on the Fuorcla da Lavaz, reached from Curaglia along the Greina route.

Is it the highest peak nearby? Yes. At 3,210 m it is the highest summit on the ridge between the Lukmanier Pass and Crap la Crusch.