Oberalpstock

Oberalpstock, also known by its Romansh name Piz Tgietschen, is a 3,328 m summit in the Glarus Alps, in the municipality of Silenen in the canton of Uri. The cantonal border with Graubünden runs along it, and the massif divides the Maderanertal valley on the Uri side from the Surselva region near Sedrun.

Where is Oberalpstock?

The mountain stands between two cantons: Uri to the north and Graubünden to the south. On the Uri side it drops into the Maderanertal, on the Graubünden side toward Surselva. Its coordinates are roughly 46.74° N, 8.77° E. Locals and climbers use both the German and the Romansh name.

Who made the first ascent?

Oberalpstock is a glaciated high-alpine objective rather than a casual hike. The first recorded ascent dates to 1793, by the Benedictine monk Placidus a Spescha together with Joseph Senoner. Spescha is regarded as an early pioneer of mountaineering in the region, which gives the peak a place in the history of Swiss alpinism.

How do you climb Oberalpstock in summer?

The normal route starts at the Camona da Cavardiras hut (Cavardirashütte) and climbs the south-east ridge and flank. The hut approach crosses the gentle Fuorcla da Cavardiras pass at 2,624 m. According to the Swiss Alpine Club (SAC) route portal, the route is graded PD, 3a, and takes about 3.5 to 4 hours up with roughly 700 m of ascent. In good conditions it is a fairly easy glacier tour, but it includes a steep snow slope and a short rocky section just below the summit. Glacier gear, a rope and team-travel skills are required.

When is the best time to go?

The SAC suggests early summer. Late in the season, when snow cover is thin, the transition from glacier to rock can become tricky and rockfall endangers the ascent line. Check current conditions and the forecast, and ask at the hut about the state of the glacier.

Can you ski Oberalpstock?

Yes. A moderate-to-demanding day ski tour is offered over the Staldenfirn glacier to Bristen, with about 2.5 hours of climbing in one description. It is a route for experienced ski tourers who assess avalanche danger before setting out.

Frequently Asked Questions

Are Oberalpstock and Piz Tgietschen the same mountain?

Yes. Piz Tgietschen is the Romansh name and Oberalpstock the German one. Both refer to the 3,328 m summit.

How high is Oberalpstock?

3,328 m above sea level, with about 700 m of ascent from the Camona da Cavardiras hut.

Do I need a guide?

The route is graded PD and crosses a glacier, so glacier experience is essential. Without it, hire a mountain guide.

Where can I stay before the climb?

At the Camona da Cavardiras hut, the starting point of the normal route.