Piz Giuv

Piz Giuv (German: Schattig Wichel), near Gurtnellen in the canton of Uri, is a 3,096 m summit on the border of Uri and Graubünden in the Glarus Alps. It is the highest peak of the range west of the Oberalpstock, which makes it a rewarding 3,000-metre goal away from the busiest classics.

Where is Piz Giuv?

The summit stands between three valleys. The Fellital and Etzlital lie to the north, and the Val Giuv in the Surselva region to the south. The slightly lower Piz Nair rises just to the east. Guidebooks of the Swiss Alpine Club (SAC) list the mountain under both its Romansh and its Swiss-German name. Approximate coordinates are 46.70° N, 8.69° E.

How do you climb Piz Giuv?

The standard route starts at the Etzlihütte (SAC hut) and crosses the Spillauibielfirn glacier. The SAC grades it PD. Allow roughly 3.5 to 4 hours up, with about 1,070 m of ascent. From the hut you first head west along the Etzlibach stream, follow moraines to the glacier edge, then continue southwest over the ice.

The crux has changed as the glacier shrinks. It is now the rock step between the Spillauibielfirn and the east ridge, where a short stretch of easy scrambling on brittle rock awaits. In July 2021 two fixed ropes hung in the step, and the SAC recommends the left one. From the saddle, the east ridge leads easily to the top. You descend the same way. The summit can also be approached from the Treschhütte.

What gear and timing do you need?

Bring glacier equipment: crampons, ice axe, harness and rope, plus a helmet because of the loose rock. A two-day trip with a night at the Etzlihütte is more comfortable than a single long day from the valley. Go in summer, when the glacier is clear of fresh snow, and check current conditions of the rock step before setting out.

Anything else worth knowing?

The Etzlital area is known for rock crystals, and the SAC notes that taking a crystal you find is fine. The peak is also a target for ski tourers and splitboarders in winter and spring.

Frequently asked questions

How high is Piz Giuv? 3,096 m above sea level.

Is Piz Giuv difficult? The SAC rates the route PD. There are no major technical difficulties, but you must be able to move on a glacier and handle a short rock step.

How long is the climb from the Etzlihütte? About 3.5 to 4 hours one way, with roughly 1,070 m of height gain.

Is Schattig Wichel the same mountain? Yes. Schattig Wichel is the German name for Piz Giuv and appears in SAC route descriptions.