Parque do Pasatempo

Parque do Pasatempo is a historic garden in Betanzos, Galicia, often described as one of the most unusual themed parks on the Iberian Peninsula. It was built in the late 19th century on the initiative of Juan García Naveira, a local man who made his fortune in Argentina and returned home determined to transform his hometown. The park blends open green space with an eccentric collection of symbolic sculptures, drawing families looking for a relaxed outing as much as visitors curious about 19th-century history and folk architecture.

Where does the park come from?

Construction began between 1893 and 1895, funded by Juan García Naveira, who had emigrated to Argentina as a young man alongside his brother Jesús and built a considerable fortune there. On returning to Betanzos, the brothers poured money into modernising the town — schools, a sanatorium, a workers' union building, and this park, conceived as an educational and recreational space open to everyone. At its peak the garden covered roughly 90,000 m² and is considered the first themed, encyclopedic park on the Iberian Peninsula. By the 1920s, Betanzos had become a mandatory stop for travellers touring Galicia, and postcards of the park were among the most sought-after souvenirs of the region.

After García Naveira's death in 1933, the park fell into decline. In the postwar decades part of the land was used for farming, and in the 1970s sections of the gardens were buried under landfill, destroying several of the original ponds and fountains. It wasn't until 1986 that Betanzos town council bought the property, began restoring it, and reopened it to the public. Today only about a tenth of the original grounds survives, but what remains has been granted the highest level of heritage protection in Spain as a Bien de Interés Cultural.

What will you see inside?

The park splits into two clearly different zones. The lower section, by the main entrance, is built for recreation: a children's playground, wide lawns for picnicking, a large pond with ducks and swans, a music stage, a maze-like garden, an open-air auditorium, and public restrooms.

The upper, historical section is the real curiosity — cement sculptures and models made from a material that was considered cutting-edge when the park was built. Highlights include the Avenue of the Roman Emperors, the Pond of the Popes, fountains dedicated to Roman deities, and an ornate cast-iron gate. The whole ensemble has a symbolic, occasionally surreal quality that visitors sometimes compare to Catalan modernisme, even though it developed independently of that movement.

How do you get there, and when should you visit?

The park sits right in Betanzos, a small historic town in the province of A Coruña, easily reached by car or bus from nearby A Coruña or Ferrol. Walking the whole grounds usually takes 45 minutes to an hour and a half, depending on how long you linger over the sculptures in the historical zone. Daytime visits in good weather work best — the greenery and stonework show up at their most photogenic, and the lower recreational area invites a longer stop to rest or eat.

Frequently Asked Questions

Who built Parque do Pasatempo? The park was commissioned by Juan García Naveira, a Betanzos native who made his fortune in Argentina and reinvested it in his hometown after returning.

Is the park suitable for children? Yes — the lower section is designed for families, with a playground, a pond full of waterfowl, and large lawns for play and rest.

How much of the original park still exists? Of the original roughly 90,000 m², only about a tenth remains today, though the surviving sections are well maintained and legally protected.

What is the main attraction in the historical section? The cement sculptures and symbolic structures, such as the Avenue of the Roman Emperors and the Pond of the Popes, which are unusual for the region and rarely seen elsewhere in Spain.