Monastery of San Miguel de Xagoaza

Monastery of San Miguel de Xagoaza stands just outside O Barco, in the heart of Galicia's Valdeorras valley. The site blends layers of medieval history with a distinctly modern purpose — today the former monastic buildings house a working winery producing godello wine.

How do you get to the monastery?

Xagoaza sits a few minutes' drive from the center of O Barco de Valdeorras, along the road running toward the Sil river valley. Arriving by car is the most convenient option, and a small visitor car park is available on site. The monastery also lies on the Winter Route of the Camino de Santiago (Camiño de Inverno), so hikers regularly pass through on their way west. Travelers without a car can reach O Barco by train or bus and cover the final stretch on foot or by bike.

What will you see on site?

The oldest surviving element of the complex is the church, whose roots go back to the 12th century and Romanesque style. Carved into the main portal is a Maltese cross, a reminder that the monastery came under the care of the Knights of the Order of San Juan de Jerusalén during the 13th century. The monastic building standing today dates from an 18th-century reconstruction, since the original medieval structure did not survive intact.

The real draw for today's visitors, though, lies underground. In 1988 the former monastic quarters were converted into a godello wine bodega, with cellars carved directly into the rock. A visit typically combines a walk through the historic rooms with a tasting of local wine, made from grapes grown on the terraced slopes of the Valdeorras valley — a region known across Spain for the quality of its godello grape.

What is the history behind this place?

The earliest records of a religious community at Xagoaza date to the late 11th century, and the monastery ranked among the most influential religious centers in the Valdeorras region during its heyday. Its story was far from linear: the site began with a charitable, hospital-like function, later came under military influence tied to the knightly orders, and eventually returned to a purely spiritual role. For centuries it also served as a shelter for pilgrims walking the Winter Route to Santiago de Compostela, offering rest along a demanding, mountainous stretch of the path.

When is the best time to visit?

Spring and early autumn are the most pleasant seasons, with mild temperatures in the Sil valley and the surrounding vineyards looking especially striking in September and October during the grape harvest. Summers in Valdeorras can get quite hot, worth factoring in when planning a walk around the grounds. It's best to check the bodega's opening hours in advance, since cellar tours and tastings usually run at set times of day.

Frequently asked questions

Can the monastery be visited with a guide? Yes, the bodega operating inside the former monastic buildings offers tours of its rock-cut cellars, usually paired with a godello wine tasting.

Does this place have a connection to the Camino de Santiago? Yes, Xagoaza lies on the Winter Route (Camiño de Inverno) and has served pilgrims as a resting point on the way to Santiago de Compostela for centuries.

What does the cross on the church portal represent? It's a Maltese cross, a legacy of the 13th century when the monastery was under the care of the Knights of the Order of San Juan de Jerusalén.

Is there somewhere to eat or stay nearby? O Barco de Valdeorras, just a few minutes away, offers restaurants and accommodation, making it a convenient base for visiting the monastery and the surrounding vineyards.