Lej Nair

Lej Nair is a small mountain lake at the top of the Bernina Pass, in the Pontresina area of the Swiss canton of Graubünden. The name is Romansh for "black lake" (German: Schwarzer See). It lies at roughly 2,223 m above sea level, right by the pass summit, between Lago Bianco ("white lake") and the little Lej Pitschen.

Where is this Lej Nair?

The lake sits beside the road over the Bernina Pass, which links the Engadine with the Italian-speaking Val Poschiavo. Its coordinates are about 46.416° N, 10.007° E. Several Graubünden lakes share the name, so note that this one is on the Bernina Pass and not one of the others in the Engadine.

What makes it special?

Its dark, still surface stands out against nearby Lago Bianco, whose milky tint comes from meltwater of the Cambrena glacier. A watershed runs right here. Lej Nair drains into the Inn basin and so eventually to the Black Sea, while Lago Bianco flows towards the Adriatic. Two neighbouring lakes, two different seas.

What can you see nearby?

• Lago Bianco, a reservoir next to the Bernina Express railway line, with glacier-capped peaks behind it.
• Lej Pitschen, the second small lake close by.
• Ospizio Bernina at about 2,310 m, a historic rest stop on the windswept pass.
• The language border between Romansh-speaking Engadine and Italian-speaking Poschiavo.

How do you get there?

The Bernina Pass is reachable by road from Pontresina and by Rhaetian Railway, and the Bernina Express calls at Ospizio Bernina station. From the stop it is a short walk to the lake. Lej Nair also lies on the Bernina Tour, a multi-day trekking route. Stage 2, from the pass towards Diavolezza, goes past the lake and turns uphill at Lej Pitschen towards Lej d'Arlas and Lej da Diavolezza.

When should you go?

At over 2,200 m the season is short. June to October is best, when trails are free of snow and the pass road is easy to drive. In winter the area is under snow and the weather can be harsh and windy. Bring warm layers even in summer, because the pass is exposed and cools quickly.

Frequently asked questions

Is Lej Nair the same as Schwarzer See?

Yes, Schwarzer See is the German form of the Romansh name, meaning "black lake". Graubünden has more than one lake of that name; this one is on the Bernina Pass.

Can you swim in it?

It is a cold high-alpine lake beside a trail and road, so it works better as a walking goal and photo stop than as a swimming spot.

How long does a visit take?

You can take in the lake in about ten minutes. Combined with Lago Bianco and Lej Pitschen, plan on half an hour to an hour.

Can I get there by train?

Yes. The Bernina Express stops at Ospizio Bernina, from where the lake is a short walk away.