Lai Nair

Lai Nair is a small mountain lake on a plateau above the village of Tarasp, in the Lower Engadine region of Graubünden, Switzerland. The name is Romansh for "black lake", and German speakers call it Schwarzsee Tarasp. The dark colour comes from the raised bog around the shore, which stains the water the shade of strong tea.

What will you see at Lai Nair?

The lake sits in a quiet clearing among larch and spruce, ringed by peat bog. Its dark surface mirrors the sky and trees, which is why hikers, mountain bikers and photographers like to stop here. It is a simple nature spot rather than a developed attraction: there is no kiosk and no lifeguard. A few fire pits stand by the shore, so a picnic with a grilled lunch is a popular plan.

Can you swim in Lai Nair?

Yes, swimming is allowed. The peaty water is dark and cool, so getting in takes some nerve. With nobody on duty, you swim at your own risk.

How do you get to Lai Nair?

The easiest route is by train to Scuol-Tarasp station, then a PostBus to the Tarasp, Fontana stop. From there it is about a 20-minute walk to the lake. Drivers can park free of charge near the school in Tarasp, or use the small lot right by the lake, which has very few spaces.

If you want a longer outing, you have several options:

• a loop from Tarasp via the hamlet of Avrona to the lake and back, about 7.2 km with roughly 260 m of ascent and a walking time just under two hours,
• an approach from Scuol through the Clemgia gorge,
• a route from Scuol-Tarasp station that passes both Lai Nair and the second small lake in the village, Lai da Tarasp.

What else is nearby?

Tarasp Castle (Romansh: Chastè da Tarasp) rises on a rocky hill by the village, and Lai da Tarasp lies close to it. Do not confuse the two lakes: Lai da Tarasp is the village pond, while Lai Nair is higher up in the forest. A visit to the castle fits easily into the same day as a walk to Lai Nair.

When should you go?

In summer the lake works for hiking, cycling and a dip. In winter, when snow conditions allow, a groomed 5.4 km cross-country loop circles the water, mostly easy terrain with a few short climbs and descents. In autumn the larches turn gold, a striking contrast with the black water.

Frequently asked questions

What does Lai Nair mean? In Romansh (Vallader), "lai" means lake and "nair" means black: the Black Lake.

Can I drive to the lake? A small car park with limited space sits next to the lake. A larger free car park by the Tarasp school requires a walk of about 20 minutes.

Can I make a fire? There are fire pits on the shore. Use only those.

Is there a lifeguard or a café? There is no lifeguard, and swimming is at your own risk. Bring food and water from Scuol or Tarasp beforehand.