Church of the Transfiguration

The Co-Cathedral of the Transfiguration in Varnsdorf is a modest but historically remarkable Old Catholic church standing in the town of Varnsdorf, in the far north of the Czech Republic, right on the border with Germany, in the Ústí nad Labem region (Děčín district).

Why does this church matter historically?

Construction took only about a year, and the church was solemnly consecrated on 27 December 1873. It was built by the local Old Catholic community, which had split from the Roman Catholic Church after the First Vatican Council proclaimed the dogma of papal infallibility. Because the building was funded almost entirely from the parish's own resources, it is considered the oldest Old Catholic church in the world erected with the community's own funds rather than outside patronage.

Its status grew quickly: from 1 January 1897, the seat of the Old Catholic bishop was moved to Varnsdorf from Vienna, and the church was elevated to the rank of cathedral. It kept that rank for almost a century, until 1995, when the bishop's seat was relocated to Prague and the Varnsdorf building became a co-cathedral instead.

What does the building look like?

The church is a single-nave, pseudo-Romanesque structure oriented along a southwest-northeast axis. A narrower presbytery, closed on three sides, adjoins the nave, and a tower rises above the entrance facade. The interior is modest by cathedral standards, but it holds one particularly valuable feature: an alabaster statue of Christ placed on the altar in July 1882, generally regarded as the finest ornament inside the church.

How do you get to Varnsdorf?

Varnsdorf sits in the so-called Šluknov Hook, the northernmost tip of Bohemia bordering Germany and lying close to Poland as well. The town has its own railway station with connections further into the country, and the co-cathedral stands within the town's built-up area, within walking distance of the centre. For travellers arriving by car, Varnsdorf makes a convenient stop while touring the Czech-German borderland, and a visit can easily be combined with other towns of the Šluknov Hook.

When is the best time to visit?

The church is best seen as part of a wider trip around the region, ideally in the warmer months, when local cultural events such as chamber-music concerts sometimes take place inside. Because the building is not a major tourist attraction with fixed visiting hours, it is worth checking opening times with the local Old Catholic parish before travelling.

Frequently Asked Questions

Is it really a cathedral? Formally, since 1995 it has held the status of co-cathedral, because the main seat of the Old Catholic bishop is now in Prague. Between 1897 and 1995, however, it served as a full cathedral.

Which denomination does the church belong to? It belongs to the Old Catholic Church in the Czech Republic, a community that split from Rome in the 19th century.

What is the most valuable feature inside? An alabaster statue of Christ placed on the altar in 1882, considered the most beautiful decoration of the church.

Is the building large? No — it is a small, single-nave, pseudo-Romanesque structure, considerably more modest than major cathedrals despite once serving as a bishop's seat.