Kaltenštejn

Kaltenštejn (also known as Hradisko, and nicknamed locally "the Bishop's Cap") is a ruined early Gothic castle standing on a wooded hill in the Rychlebské hory, about 2 km from the village of Černá Voda and 9 km north of Jeseník, above the former settlement of Nové Podhradí. Despite having lain in ruins for centuries, it remains one of the most recognisable historic sites in the Jeseník region.

A castle caught between rulers

Kaltenštejn was most likely built at the end of the 13th century, with the earliest written records dating to 1295–1296, though some accounts trace an even older name, castrum Kaldensteyn — literally "castle on cold stone." From its earliest years the stronghold was a bone of contention between Duke Bolko I of Świdnica and the Bishop of Wrocław, Jan Romka, both vying for control of this border zone between Silesia and Moravia. Over the following centuries the castle changed hands repeatedly, frequently pawned to different noble families, a common fate for border fortresses of the era. One of its more dramatic episodes came in 1441, when the knight Zikmund Rachna briefly seized the castle in connection with the abduction of the daughter of the captain of Kłodzko. Kaltenštejn's story as an active stronghold ended in the 16th century, when the bishop ordered it demolished so that it could no longer serve as a base of resistance against episcopal authority.

What survives today

The most striking surviving element is the castle core, dominated by a powerful cylindrical bergfried tower rising up to 20 metres — visible from a distance above the surrounding treetops. Beside the tower, visitors can make out the remains of the residential palace building and sections of the surrounding curtain wall, preserved along a stretch of roughly 38 metres. The hill on which the castle stands was naturally defended by a steep slope on three sides, while the more exposed southern approach was reinforced with several additional lines of walls. The access route to the main gate ran along the northern side. Historical sources also mention outbuildings within the castle grounds — stables, a windmill and a brewery once stood here, suggesting the stronghold functioned for a time as a largely self-sufficient settlement.

Getting there and when to go

The ruins lie along a hiking trail connecting Černá Voda with the area around Žulová, making them a popular destination for walkers exploring the Rychlebské hory. The most convenient approach is to drive to Černá Voda and continue on foot up the marked trail; the final stretch to the ruins can only be covered on foot. As a listed cultural monument of the Czech Republic, the site is accessible year-round, with spring and autumn offering the best visibility of the walls before or after the summer foliage covers the hillside. In summer, it's worth carrying water, since the trail runs through forest with no facilities along the way. Guided tours of the castle are occasionally organised, giving visitors the chance to learn more about its history from local enthusiasts.

Frequently asked questions

When was Kaltenštejn castle built? Most likely at the end of the 13th century — the earliest written mentions date to 1295–1296.

Why was the castle destroyed? In the 16th century it was demolished on the orders of the Bishop of Wrocław so it could no longer serve as a stronghold against episcopal authority.

What can you see among the ruins today? Mainly the massive cylindrical bergfried tower, up to 20 metres tall, along with remains of the defensive walls and the residential palace.

Is there an entrance fee? The ruins are freely accessible year-round with no standard admission fee, although occasional guided tours are organised for a fee.