Igrexa de Santa María de Penamaior

Igrexa de Santa María de Penamaior is a Romanesque monastic church in the municipality of Becerreá, tucked into a green valley on the slopes of the Serra do Pico in the eastern part of Lugo province, in the Os Ancares Lucenses area of Galicia, Spain. It sits almost midway between Becerreá and Baralla, well off the main tourist routes — a rewarding stop for travelers who prefer quiet, authentic Romanesque heritage over crowded landmarks.

What will you see there?

The church is the only structure that survives from a monastery originally built in the 12th century; the rest of the monastic complex has been lost or fallen into ruin, although traces of the old cloister can still be made out. The building itself follows a basilical plan with three naves closing into three apses. The two side apses are semicircular, but the central one is the real highlight: polygonal on the outside, semicircular on the inside — an unusual combination for a church this size. Inside, pillars divide the naves into four bays, and the arches opening onto the apsidal chapels are semicircular, resting on attached half-columns crowned with capitals carved in the Compostelan style typical of Romanesque stonework in this part of Spain.

The building is listed as a Bien de Interés Cultural (Asset of Cultural Interest) in Galicia and formally belongs to the Diocese of Lugo, though it still functions as a parish church today.

What is the history behind it?

Documentary references to the monastery predate the year 922, making Penamaior one of the older monastic sites in the region. It was originally home to a Benedictine community, which joined the Cistercian Congregation in 1203. The present-day church dates from the 12th century and remains the only tangible trace of that long monastic history — everything else around it has faded with time.

How do you get to Igrexa de Santa María de Penamaior?

The church stands in the Becerreá municipality, within the Os Ancares Lucenses comarca, in a quiet, mountainous corner of eastern Galicia. Driving is by far the easiest option, taking you through the green valleys typical of the Ancares landscape, far from any city bustle. Since this is a small rural parish church, it's worth checking locally for opening times or contacting the parish in Becerreá before visiting — access to the interior can be limited outside of Mass hours.

When is the best time to visit?

The Ancares region has a mountainous, damp climate, so spring and early autumn are the most comfortable seasons, when the valleys are at their greenest and temperatures stay mild. Summer suits longer hikes through the surrounding countryside, while winter can bring weather that makes some of the local roads in this part of Lugo harder to navigate.

Frequently asked questions

Is Igrexa de Santa María de Penamaior still an active church? Yes, the building still serves as a parish church and belongs to the Diocese of Lugo, even though it originated as part of a much larger monastic complex.

What remains of the original monastery besides the church? Aside from the church itself, only traces of the old cloister survive — the rest of the monastic buildings have disappeared or deteriorated over the centuries.

What makes the architecture of this church stand out? Mostly the design of its main apse — polygonal outside, semicircular inside — along with the Compostelan-style capitals decorating the half-columns at the entrances to the apsidal chapels.

Are there other sites worth visiting nearby in the Ancares region? Yes, the Os Ancares Lucenses comarca is known for its traditional mountain architecture and hiking trails, making it a good base for a longer stay that combines history with nature.