Igrexa de San Xoán de Covas

Igrexa de San Xoán de Covas is a parish church in the Covas district of Viveiro, in the province of Lugo, Galicia.

Why is the district called Covas?

The name comes from the Galician word "cova" (cave), and it is not a coincidence. The original parish church, dedicated to St John, once stood inside a cave carved into a cliff above the river mouth, between the beaches of Covas and Sacido. The site is still known today as San Xoán Vello — "Old St John." It was only in the mid-18th century, once the climb to the cave became too difficult and the building itself was falling into ruin, that the parish moved to a new site in the center of Covas, where the current church now stands.

What is there to see?

The present-day church in central Covas is really the starting point for a much older story. Historian Manuel Gago ranks the cave church, San Xoán Vello, among the most significant rock-cut churches in all of Galicia. Some researchers also believe the cave may once have formed part of an old mining gallery, connected to the nearby Forno dos Mouros site, less than a kilometer away. In 2021, the Viveiro town council funded archaeological digs at San Xoán Vello to better understand its original purpose and age.

A visit to the church pairs naturally with a walk along the cliffs toward Covas and Sacido beaches, where the original place of worship once stood right above the water. The path follows part of a coastal walking trail and offers views of the ría much as the parish's earlier inhabitants would have seen it.

How do you get there?

Covas belongs administratively to Viveiro, one of the main towns on Galicia's Rías Altas coast. From central Viveiro, Covas is a short drive or a walk of a little over ten minutes along the waterfront, since the district sits right next to the beaches on the northern side of the river mouth. The nearest major airport is A Coruña Airport, roughly ninety minutes away by car.

When is the best time to visit?

Spring and early autumn are good times for walking the cliff paths, with mild temperatures and fewer crowds than in July and August. Summer brings more visitors to the beaches around Covas, which means busier paths but also a fuller range of places to eat nearby. If the archaeological side of the site interests you, it is worth checking locally in advance whether the San Xoán Vello cave is open to visitors, since access can be restricted while research or safety work on the cliff is underway.

Frequently asked questions

Does the current church stand where the original one did? No. The original church stood in a cave on the cliff above the river mouth, between Covas and Sacido beaches. The parish moved to its present site in central Covas in the mid-18th century.

What is San Xoán Vello? It is the name of the earlier cave church, the predecessor of today's building. According to historian Manuel Gago, it ranks among Galicia's most important rock-cut churches.

Can visitors go inside the cave? The site is under archaeological study, so it is worth checking locally about current access before visiting — safety and ongoing research can limit it at times.

What else is worth seeing nearby? About a kilometer from the cave lies the Forno dos Mouros site, which some researchers link to the origins of the San Xoán Vello cave.