Igrexa de San Paio de Fitoiro

Igrexa de San Paio de Fitoiro is a small parish church in the hamlet of Fitoiro, in the municipality of Chandrexa de Queixa, province of Ourense, in the Terra de Trives area of Galicia. Sitting well over a thousand metres above sea level and framed by the peaks of the Serra da Queixa, the church and its adjoining cemetery form a modest but genuine piece of rural Galician heritage.

Where is it and what makes it special?

Fitoiro is one of eight settlements that make up the parish of San Paio de Fitoiro, alongside As Airas, O Campo, O Carballo, Casa Núñez, Cimadevila, As Lamas and Valdemiotos. This is deep rural Ourense: parish records counted just 19 residents in 2022, down from 33 in 2007 — a decline typical of the mountain villages across this part of Galicia, where younger generations have moved to the cities and left behind stone houses, terraced fields, and a church that still anchors community life.

The church is dedicated to San Paio (Saint Pelagius), a patron shared by many rural Galician churches whose simple, single-nave buildings have carried his name since medieval times. The building itself is not a grand monument and rarely features in guidebooks; its appeal lies instead in authenticity — bare stone walls, a quiet cemetery at its threshold, and a mountain setting where daily life still moves at its own pace.

What can you see nearby?

The real draw of this corner of Ourense is the landscape surrounding it. Chandrexa de Queixa sits at the foot of the Serra da Queixa range, where summits rise above 1,700 metres and the valleys of the Navea, Requeixo and Dorelle rivers weave through a network of scenic trails. Within the range, the Dorelle stream (also known locally as Rego de Casteligo) tumbles over a waterfall more than 10 metres high, and not far away stand the old A Previsa bridge and the Cardiego recreation area.

Hikers will find marked routes such as the circular Celeiros path and the As Forcadas trail, both crossing abandoned villages and glacial valleys with sweeping panoramic views. It's also worth detouring to the 18th-century Casal de Drados, now a rural-tourism farmhouse, and to the interpretation centre for Galician identity in Celeiros.

When is the best time to visit?

The months from June to September are ideal, when mountain trails are dry and passable and temperatures in this upland stretch of Ourense stay mild. Autumn brings colourful chestnut and oak woodland, making it a rewarding season for landscape photography. In winter, the higher reaches of the Serra da Queixa can see snow, which limits access to the more remote parts of the municipality, though the church and the village itself remain reachable year-round.

Frequently asked questions

How do you get to Igrexa de San Paio de Fitoiro? By car is by far the easiest option, from Ourense or from the nearby town of Manzaneda, following local roads into the municipality of Chandrexa de Queixa; public transport in this area is very limited.

Can you go inside the church? It remains an active parish church, usually opened for Mass and local celebrations. Outside those times, visitors can view the exterior and the adjoining cemetery.

What else is worth seeing close by? The Dorelle waterfall, the As Forcadas hiking trail, the old A Previsa bridge, and the peaks of the Serra da Queixa are all within a short drive of Fitoiro.

Is this a good stop for families? Yes, for a quiet walk and time in nature — the easier trail sections and the area around the Chandrexa reservoir suit less experienced walkers, while the higher mountain routes demand more fitness.