Heap Ema

Ema Heap is a distinctive, still-smouldering coal spoil tip in the Slezská Ostrava district, on the right bank of the Ostravice river in Ostrava, Czech Republic. For locals it's the city's best-known viewpoint and a living monument to the region's mining past — a hill that has been quietly burning for decades and still draws walkers, cyclists and fans of unusual industrial landscapes.

How did Ema Heap come to be?

The heap started out as a mining spoil tip, built up between the 1920s and 1960s from waste rock hauled in from nearby coal mines, chiefly the Trojice mine. Its name comes from Countess Emma Maria Emo Capodilista, wife of Count Wilczek, who owned the mining operations in the area. By the time dumping stopped, the heap held several tens of millions of tonnes of material and had reached a height of 315 metres above sea level.

Why is Ema Heap still burning?

This is the fact everyone remembers — the interior of the heap self-ignited in the 1950s and has been burning ever since. The main fire was brought under control about two decades later, but the core keeps smouldering, with internal temperatures reaching 1200–1500°C. The constant heat means parts of the slopes never get covered by snow, and it also produces rare minerals — porcelainites and jaspers — that turn up on the surface. In places you'll spot stone "baskets" built specifically to vent the gases escaping from inside the hill.

What will you see there?

Thanks to its height and position above the Ostravice valley, Ema Heap offers one of the best panoramas in Ostrava — both the city centre and the chimneys of the region's former industrial plants are visible from the top. Because of its volcano-like behaviour, locals sometimes call it "Ostrava's Vesuvius." Protected as a technical heritage site since 1995, the heap has been getting steady upgrades from the city — walking paths, benches, and small ponds are being added around its base to make the area more pleasant for visitors.

How do you get to Ema Heap?

The heap sits in the Slezská Ostrava district, a few kilometres from the city centre, and is easy to reach on foot or by bike via marked trails. The climb to the top usually takes 20–30 minutes and needs no special preparation, though sturdy shoes help since parts of the terrain are uneven and stony.

When is the best time to visit?

Ema Heap is open year-round, but the view rewards clear-weather days — spring and autumn tend to have cleaner air over Ostrava than the heating season. In summer the greenery on the slopes is at its best, while winter brings out the most striking contrast between snow-covered ground and the warm, bare patches kept clear by the heat below.

Frequently asked questions

Is Ema Heap really burning all the time? Yes. The interior ignited in the 1950s, and even though the main fire was put out in the 1970s, it still smoulders today with internal temperatures around 1200–1500°C.

Is it safe to walk to the top? Yes, if you stick to the marked trails. Avoid straying toward areas with visible smoke or steam.

Where does the name "Ema" come from? From Countess Emma Maria Emo Capodilista, wife of Count Wilczek, who owned the historic mines in the area.

How long does a visit take? The climb up and down takes about an hour, but plan for 1.5–2 hours if you want to enjoy the view and rest at the top.