Church of Saints Peter and Paul in Byšičky

The Church of Saints Peter and Paul in Byšičky stands on a wooded hilltop right next to Lázně Bělohrad, in the Jičín district of the Hradec Králové region. It is the only structure that survives from the former village of Byšičky, which vanished during the Thirty Years' War — the settlement itself is long gone, but the church remains and still draws visitors and pilgrims alike.

How to get there?

Byšičky lies roughly four kilometers southeast of the center of Lázně Bělohrad, in the direction of Miletín, within the cadastral territory of the village of Brtev. Administratively, it belongs to the municipality of Lázně Bělohrad, even though the site has long stood on its own as a well-known landmark on the region's tourist map. A marked hiking trail dedicated to poet Karel Jaromír Erben leads to the church, reachable both from the spa town and from nearby Miletín, Erben's hometown. The hill is also surrounded by the Byšičky nature reserve, so a walk to the church pairs easily with a short outing in nature.

What will you see?

The church is first documented in 1267, when a small Romanesque structure stood on the site — its presbytery, complete with a characteristic apse, survives from that 13th-century building. The nave was added in 1720, and the tower much later, in 1850; a thorough renovation followed in 1854 under Alfons Aichelburg. Inside, look out for the Marian altar. A Way of the Cross winds up the hilltop to the church and has been restored along with the surrounding grounds. At the entrance, local legend points to a stone said to bear the knee imprints of Saint Peter.

The church serves as a subsidiary (filial) church of the Lázně Bělohrad parish and is protected as a cultural monument. A small cemetery surrounds it, holding the graves of composer Karel Moor (1873–1945) and his wife, opera singer Tereza Moorová (1890–1976), teacher and writer Leontina Mašínová (1882–1975), and priest František Nosek (1879–1956), a bishop's notary. Between 1851 and 1880, the hermit Augustin Hoření — regarded as the last Czech hermit — lived beside the church, and his story remains part of the local lore surrounding the site.

The picturesque view of the church rising above its small cemetery inspired Karel Jaromír Erben, who was born in nearby Miletín, to write the ballad "The Wedding Shirt" (Svatební košile), part of his collection "Kytice" — one of the best-known works of Czech romantic poetry.

When to visit?

The church and its hilltop setting are best visited in spring and summer, when longer days make walking the Way of the Cross and the surrounding woods especially pleasant. Autumn suits those looking for quiet — fewer visitors and a moodier atmosphere echo the scene that once inspired Erben.

Frequently asked questions

Is Byšičky a separate village, or part of Lázně Bělohrad? Byšičky was a village that no longer exists; its territory now belongs administratively to the municipality of Lázně Bělohrad (cadastrally to the village of Brtev). The settlement itself disappeared during the Thirty Years' War, leaving only the church on the hill behind.

How old is the church in Byšičky? The first written mention dates to 1267, and the surviving presbytery with its apse goes back to that same Romanesque, 13th-century building.

What is this place's connection to Czech literature? The sight of the church surrounded by its small cemetery inspired Karel Jaromír Erben to write the ballad "The Wedding Shirt," part of his collection "Kytice."

Who is buried in the churchyard cemetery? Those buried there include composer Karel Moor and his wife, opera singer Tereza Moorová, teacher and writer Leontina Mašínová, and priest František Nosek.