Church of Saint Mary Magdalene in Deštné v Orlických horách

The Church of Saint Mary Magdalene in Deštné v Orlických horách is a Baroque church that has stood at the heart of this mountain village in the Orlické hory (Eagle Mountains) for three centuries. Its two slightly angled towers on the west front are visible from a distance, and the interior holds one of the more unusual altar arrangements in the region. The church lies in the Rychnov nad Kněžnou District of the Hradec Králové Region and is a notable stop for anyone following the trail of architect Jan Blažej Santini-Aichel's work across the Czech Republic.

Who designed the church, and why here?

The building was designed by Jan Blažej Santini-Aichel, one of the leading architects of Czech Baroque, known for blending Baroque forms with Gothic elements. The project was commissioned by Count František Karel II Libštejnský z Kolowrat, who ordered a new church to replace an older Gothic building on the same site. That earlier church had served as the parish church since as far back as the 14th century, so the tradition of worship at this spot in Deštné predates the current Baroque structure by several hundred years.

When was the church built?

The foundation stone was laid on 12 October 1720. The ceremony was led by priest Schmidel, acting on behalf of the vicar general of the Hradec Králové diocese, P. Tobiáš Josef Neumann. Construction itself ran from 1720 to 1726. The church has largely retained its original form since then, though it has undergone later repairs — after one such restoration, it was reconsecrated in 1992.

What does the architecture look like?

It is a single-nave church with a presbytery built on an unusual hexagonal floor plan set transversely to the main axis — a solution typical of Santini, who favored breaking away from the standard rectangular layout. The west façade is flanked by two prism-shaped towers, deliberately tilted at a slight angle to the building's axis, which gives the front a sense of movement and is one of the recognizable traits of Santini's style. Inside, the ceiling is flat rather than the vaulted ceiling typical of many Baroque churches.

What is worth seeing inside?

The main altar is the church's biggest curiosity. Instead of a conventional painting or statue set against a flat wall, it sits within a deep, cave-like niche holding a sculpted scene of Saint Mary Magdalene in the desert. This departs noticeably from standard Baroque altar design and draws the eye as soon as visitors step inside. The altar itself, dating from the 18th century, is the work of sculptor J. Hartmann. The church also preserves an organ from 1729, a Baroque baptismal font, and Stations of the Cross paintings from the first half of the 18th century.

Who is this church worth visiting for?

The church will appeal most to travelers tracing Santini's architectural legacy in the Czech Republic — Deštné is one of the lesser-known but distinctive stops on that trail. It pairs well with a broader trip through the Orlické hory, an area popular for hiking and skiing routes.

Frequently asked questions

Who designed the church in Deštné? Jan Blažej Santini-Aichel, one of the foremost architects of Czech Baroque, designed the building.

How long did construction take? Construction ran from 1720 to 1726; the foundation stone was laid in October 1720.

What stood on this site before? An older Gothic church, recorded as a parish church as early as the 14th century.

What is the most distinctive feature inside? The main altar, set in a cave-like niche with a sculpted scene of Saint Mary Magdalene in the desert, created by sculptor J. Hartmann.

Has the church been renovated? Yes — following one restoration, it was reconsecrated in 1992.