Church of Saint John the Baptist

The Church of Saint John the Baptist in Semily is a Baroque church standing in a cemetery on Koštofrank hill, one of the oldest structures in town and a protected cultural monument of the Czech Republic. Although it now serves as a cemetery church, its history goes back to a time when it was the main place of worship for part of the local population.

How to get there?

The church stands within the cemetery grounds on Koštofrank hill in Semily, in the Liberec Region of northern Bohemia. It's a small, quiet spot away from the town's main tourist flow, which is exactly what makes it worth seeking out for travelers looking for lesser-known religious heritage in the region. Semily sits in the valley of the Jizera River, so it's easy to combine a visit here with a walk through the town center and its other sacred landmarks.

What will you see?

For such a modest building, the church has an unusually eventful history. The original structure on this site was wooden and dates back to the late 16th century. It didn't survive intact — a fire destroyed it in 1691. One relic from that building did survive, though: a bell dated 1590, which still hangs today in the tower of Semily's parish church, a tangible link to the earliest chapter of Christianity in town.

There's also a notable episode from the Reformation era. When the main parish church of Saints Peter and Paul in Semily was taken over by the Utraquists, it was this church on Koštofrank that served as the parish church for the local Catholic minority. After the Battle of White Mountain, the roles reversed — the church lost its parish status, was reduced to a mere chapel, and fell into gradual decline for a time.

The church owes its current masonry form to a rebuilding project started after 1723 and completed in 1735, when the wooden structure was replaced with the solid building still standing today. Once the church of Saints Peter and Paul returned to Catholic hands, the Koštofrank church took on the cemetery-church role it still holds now.

Inside, look out for the pentagonal presbytery, to which a sacristy was later added, topped by an oratory built in 1825. The presbytery ceiling carries a painting showing Saint John the Baptist preaching to the crowds, created in 1761 by the Prague painter Antonín František Hampisch. The main altar, in Rococo style with marble polychrome decoration, wasn't built for this church at all — it was moved here in 1851 from the chapel of Saint John of Nepomuk at Semily's chateau.

When to visit?

Since the church functions as part of an active cemetery, it's best visited during daytime hours, calmly and with respect for people visiting family graves. It makes a good short, contemplative stop as part of a longer day exploring Semily and the Jizera valley — it doesn't demand much time, but it rewards a closer look at its architectural and historical details.

Frequently asked questions

Is the current church building original? Not entirely — the original 16th-century wooden church burned down in 1691. The masonry church standing today was built starting in 1723 and completed in 1735.

What survived from the oldest church? A bell dated 1590, now hanging in the tower of Semily's parish church.

What role does the church serve today? It functions as a cemetery church, located within the cemetery grounds on Koštofrank hill.

What's the most interesting feature inside? The 1761 ceiling painting by Antonín František Hampisch and the Rococo altar moved here in 1851 from the chapel at Semily's chateau.