Church of Nossa Senhora da Alegria

Church of Nossa Senhora da Alegria (Igreja de Nossa Senhora da Alegria, or Church of Our Lady of Joy) is the parish church of Furnas, on the island of São Miguel in the Azores. Its white body and twin clock towers stand out against the green valley and the steam rising from the hot springs around it.

Where is it and how do you find it?

The church sits in the centre of Furnas, in the municipality of Povoação in the eastern part of São Miguel, at roughly 37.7729 N, 25.3110 W. Furnas lies inside a volcanic caldera where fumaroles vent from the ground and the air often smells of sulphur. The church is one of the village's most recognisable buildings, which makes it an easy stop on a walk between the Terra Nostra park and the lake.

Why did construction take so long?

This is a building whose story stretches across most of the twentieth century. Work began in 1901, and the first stone was laid by King Carlos I and Queen Amelia of Portugal. The project was backed by the Marquis of Praia e Monforte, but when he died in 1913 the works stopped.

In the following decades the unfinished structure served other purposes. In 1940 it housed the 3rd Company of Infantry Regiment No. 18. Only in the second half of the century did construction resume, thanks to funds left by the Countess of Cuba, the marquis's daughter. João Filipe Martins drew up the project to complete it. The church was inaugurated on 23 November 1963, more than sixty years after the foundation stone was laid.

What does it look like?

The style is neo-Romanesque. The white façade is flanked by two towers with clocks. A horseshoe-arch portal and a large rose window draw the eye, and the whole composition looks especially striking against dark vegetation and the natural mist of the thermal area.

Inside, stained glass windows filter the light and give the nave a calm atmosphere. It is a pleasant place to pause after visiting the gardens and thermal pools.

Frequently asked questions

Is the church old? Not entirely. Building began in 1901, but it was only inaugurated in 1963, so it is fairly young by Azorean standards.

Who laid the first stone? King Carlos I and Queen Amelia of Portugal.

What architectural style is it? Neo-Romanesque, with a white façade, two clock towers, a horseshoe-arch portal and a large rose window.

Why did construction take so long? The death of the main patron in 1913 halted the works, and the events of the first half of the twentieth century, including two world wars, caused further delays. A bequest from the Countess of Cuba made completion possible.

Is it worth going inside? Yes, especially for the stained glass and quiet mood. It is a working parish church, so dress and behave respectfully.

What else is nearby? Furnas has hot springs, fumaroles, the Terra Nostra gardens and a caldera lake. The village is also known for cozido, a stew cooked underground in volcanic heat.