Château de Retourtour

Château de Retourtour is an evocative medieval ruin in the commune of Lamastre, in the Ardèche region of southeastern France. Perched on a small rocky spur wrapped by a bend of the Doux river, it once guarded the route linking the Rhône valley with Le Puy-en-Velay. Today it's a favourite short walk for visitors staying in and around Lamastre, valued for its atmosphere and sweeping valley views.

How old is the castle and who built it?

The site's history stretches back to at least the 10th–11th century: a place called "Retortorio" is already mentioned in a document from the year 961, recording a donation to the Abbey of Saint-Chaffre du Monastier. The castle itself was built and expanded over the following centuries as the seat of the Pagan-Retourtour family, feudal lords who controlled this stretch of the Doux valley. In 1376, through marriage, the stronghold passed to the Tournon family, one of the most powerful noble houses in the Vivarais region at the time.

The fortress was enclosed by high curtain walls, with a square gatehouse tower guarding the entrance. Below it, in the lower courtyard, a settlement grew up — the seed of today's village — its houses forming a second defensive ring on the northern and eastern sides.

Why did the castle fall into ruin?

The 16th-century Wars of Religion left the deepest mark on Retourtour's history: the castle served as a Protestant stronghold during that period. In December 1587, Châtillon, son of Admiral Coligny, took refuge there with his men. The castle's actual ruin, however, is mainly attributed to inheritance disputes among the family of owners rather than to direct warfare. By 1642, a land survey already described the property as "a castle made up of several ruined and broken sections," showing that the decline had been under way for a long time.

What can you see there today?

What survives is chiefly a stretch of the old curtain wall and the general outline of the fortified site on its rocky spur. Entering the ruins themselves is forbidden for safety reasons, but visitors are free to walk right up to the walls and circle the site. The reward is a wide panorama over the Doux valley and the surrounding Ardèche hills, which is exactly why the spot remains popular with walkers and photographers.

How to get there and what else to know

The ruins lie just northwest of central Lamastre, set in the rural landscape of the Doux valley. At the foot of the castle, right by the river, is the Retourtour swimming spot — a natural pool on the Doux that draws families looking to cool off on hot summer days. Combining a walk up to the ruins with a dip in the river is a classic way to spend a summer afternoon here.

A visit pairs naturally with a stay in Lamastre itself, a quiet Ardèche town best known for the historic Mastrou narrow-gauge steam railway.

Frequently Asked Questions

Can you go inside Château de Retourtour? No — the ruins are unsafe to enter, so access inside is prohibited. You can, however, walk freely up to the walls and around the site.

How old is the castle? The site is documented as far back as the 10th–11th century, and the fortress was expanded and reinforced over the following centuries, up through the Wars of Religion in the 16th century.

Is there a place to swim near the castle? Yes — at the foot of the ruins is the Retourtour swimming spot on the Doux river, popular with visitors and locals during the summer season.

How far is the castle from central Lamastre? The ruins sit just northwest of Lamastre's town centre, a short walk or drive away, within the Doux river valley.