Cenarth Falls

Cenarth Falls is a series of cascades on the River Teifi beside the village of Cenarth in west Wales, close to where Carmarthenshire, Ceredigion and Pembrokeshire meet. The river drops over rocky ledges through a wooded valley, and the spot is among the best-loved short stops in the Teifi valley.

What makes Cenarth Falls special?

The falls sit just upstream of the road bridge in the village centre. For migratory fish they are the first serious obstacle on the Teifi: salmon and sea trout return from the sea and have to climb the rock steps to reach their spawning grounds. That is why people have long come to Cenarth to watch fish leap. Even without them, the rocks, trees and sound of water make it worth lingering.

When should you visit to see leaping salmon?

Early autumn is the best time, while the fish are heading upriver. Water levels are usually more favourable after rain, though the riverside car park can flood after heavy downpours. Outside the salmon season the falls are still pleasant: spring and summer bring a green, shaded valley, and a walk along the bank takes about fifteen minutes.

What else is there to see in Cenarth?

• The stone bridge. The arched bridge over the Teifi dates from 1787 and has circular openings that lighten its structure. It gives a good view of the cascade.
• National Coracle Centre. The museum occupies the grounds of a 17th-century mill beside the river. It shows coracles, the light round boats of woven frame covered in hide or cloth that were used for fishing on the Teifi, along with similar craft from around the world. You can sit in one. Opening times change with the season (generally Easter to October), so check before you go.
• Riverside paths. Trails run along the bank and through the woodland of the valley.
• Teifi Valley Railway. A narrow-gauge line nearby, a good option for families.

How do you get to Cenarth?

The village lies on the A484 between Cardigan and Carmarthen, so a car is the easiest way to arrive. There is a small car park by the falls and spaces can be scarce in season. From Cardigan or Newcastle Emlyn it is only a short drive.

How much time do you need?

The falls and the bridge take 30 to 45 minutes. Add the coracle museum and a short walk and plan on about two hours. Wear shoes with good grip, since the rocks by the water are slippery.

Is it free to visit?

Viewing the falls from the bridge and the bank costs nothing. The National Coracle Centre charges admission, and parking may be paid at private car parks in the village. Check current prices on site.

Frequently asked questions

Which county are Cenarth Falls in? The Teifi forms the boundary between Carmarthenshire and Ceredigion here, and Pembrokeshire is close by. The village itself is usually described as being in Carmarthenshire.

When can you see salmon jumping? In autumn, when fish return upriver to spawn. Views tend to be best after rain, when the river is higher.

Is Cenarth good for children? Yes. Short walks, a museum with a boat you can sit in, and the nearby narrow-gauge railway make a comfortable half day. Keep children away from the wet rocks at the edge.

Can you eat in Cenarth? There are cafes and pubs near the bridge, but their opening hours depend on the season.