Castle of Peñarroya

Castillo de Peñarroya is a medieval fortress in the municipality of Argamasilla de Alba, in the province of Ciudad Real, Castilla-La Mancha. Perched on a rocky outcrop above a dramatic bend of the Guadiana River, right where the water backs up into the Peñarroya reservoir, the castle serves as the gateway to the Lagunas de Ruidera Natural Park.

How do you get there?

The castle sits about 12 km south of Argamasilla de Alba, along the CM-3115 road toward Ruidera. It's on one of the most common routes travelers take toward the lagoons, so the drive is straightforward and well signposted — the road crosses the open, dry plains typical of southern La Mancha before dropping toward the Guadiana canyon. There's a parking area at the base of the hill, and reaching the ruins themselves requires a short but steep walk up the slope.

What will you see on site?

The castle keeps the layout typical of military-order fortresses from the Reconquista period. A stone portico leads into the arms courtyard (patio de armas), measuring 67 by 43 meters — one of the largest spaces of its kind in the region. Inside the courtyard you can still make out the foundations of a 12th-century church and a cistern, which once secured water for the garrison during long sieges. The square tower of homage (torre del homenaje), covering 113 m² across three floors, dominates the site — it's the best-preserved part of the whole complex and the spot with the widest view over the Guadiana canyon and the surrounding hills.

The setting itself is worth pausing on: the castle sits right on the edge of a cliff, so the natural drop acted as an extra defensive line. That same view is now the main reason the site draws photographers and hikers.

What's the history behind the castle?

The fortress was taken in 1198 by the combined forces of the military Orders of Santiago and San Juan during the Reconquista push through this stretch of the former Al-Andalus frontier. In 1215 it was definitively assigned to the Order of San Juan (the Knights Hospitaller), who turned it from a purely military outpost into an important administrative and economic hub for their commandery, overseeing trade and movement along this section of the Guadiana. It kept that role for several centuries before eventually losing its strategic relevance and falling into ruin.

When's the best time to visit?

Spring (April–June) and early autumn (September–October) are the best windows, when La Mancha's temperatures are comfortable and the nearby lagoons tend to be fuller after seasonal rain. In summer, the exposed rock and lack of shade make midday visits punishing — it's better to climb the hill in the morning or late afternoon. The castle pairs naturally with a full day exploring the Lagunas de Ruidera further along the same CM-3115 road.

Frequently asked questions

Was Castillo de Peñarroya a Templar castle? No — despite a popular legend, it was captured in 1198 by the Orders of Santiago and San Juan, and from 1215 it belonged to the Knights Hospitaller (Order of San Juan), not the Templars.

Is entry to the castle free? The grounds are open for walking visits; it's worth checking current access hours before heading out, since the site is managed as a regional cultural heritage location.

How long does a visit take? Counting the walk up the hill and a loop around the courtyard and tower, a typical visit takes about 45 to 60 minutes.

Can I combine it with a visit to the Lagunas de Ruidera? Yes — the castle sits practically on the way to the natural park, and many visitors use it as the first stop on a day trip through Ruidera.