Casón del Buen Retiro

Casón del Buen Retiro is a historic pavilion in Madrid and one of the last surviving pieces of the 17th-century Buen Retiro Palace complex. The building stands right at the edge of Retiro Park and is now part of the neighboring Prado Museum.

Where does the building come from?

The Casón was built in 1637 as a ballroom within the Buen Retiro palace complex, a project led by architect Alonso Carbonell for the Spanish royal court. Of the sprawling palace grounds that once stretched east of Madrid's old center, only two structures remain today — the Casón and the nearby Salón de Reinos. The building's west-facing façade, the one visitors see today, was redesigned in the late 19th century by architect Ricardo Velázquez Bosco, giving it the more formal, museum-like look it has now.

What's inside?

Inside lies one of Madrid's more overlooked treasures: a monumental ceiling fresco painted in 1697 by Luca Giordano, known as the Allegory of the Golden Fleece. The Baroque illusionistic painting, characteristic of Italian masters of the era, covers the entire ceiling of what was once the palace ballroom.

For decades the Casón operated as a gallery of 19th-century painting, holding roughly 3,000 works from the Prado's collection. It was here that Picasso's Guernica was displayed for a time after returning to Spain from the United States — one of the most significant paintings of the 20th century. In 1992 the work was moved to the Reina Sofía Museum, and the Casón itself closed for extensive renovation.

Today the building serves a different purpose: it houses the Prado Museum's study centre and a specialist art library. The most recent restoration, completed in 2007 under architect Jaime Tarruel, restored the building and adapted it for its current research role.

How do you get there?

The Casón del Buen Retiro sits in the heart of Madrid's "art triangle," right beside the Prado and directly adjoining Retiro Park. Metro stations Retiro or Banco de España are just a few minutes' walk from the entrance. It's an easy stop to combine with a visit to the Prado or a stroll through the park — the two are only a short distance apart.

What else is nearby?

The immediate surroundings are a big draw. Retiro Park, with its lake, Crystal Palace, and tree-lined paths, offers hours of walking, while the Prado itself holds one of the world's most important painting collections. Nearby also stands the Salón de Reinos, the other surviving fragment of the old Buen Retiro Palace, likewise tied to museum activity today.

When should you visit?

Since the Casón now functions as the Prado's library and research centre, access to the interior can be limited to researchers and occasional events, so it's worth checking current conditions before planning a visit. The surrounding area — the park and the building's façade — is open year-round, and spring or autumn tend to be the most pleasant times, avoiding the summer crowds that fill Retiro Park.

Frequently Asked Questions

What is the Casón del Buen Retiro? It's a historic building from 1637, a surviving piece of the former Buen Retiro Palace, now part of the Prado Museum and used as its study centre and library.

Can you visit the interior? The building doesn't operate as a ticketed museum in the usual sense — it mainly serves as the Prado's library and research centre, so access can be limited.

Why is this place historically significant? It once displayed Picasso's Guernica for several years, and its ceiling still carries Luca Giordano's Baroque fresco from 1697.

How far is it from the Prado Museum? The building sits directly next to the Prado — only a short walk apart, right at the edge of Retiro Park.