Astorga

Astorga is a small city in the province of León, in the Castilla y León region of Spain, packing two thousand years of history into a hilltop settlement — from a Roman military camp to a neo-Gothic palace designed by Antoni Gaudí. Sitting on raised ground above the surrounding plain, the city has held a strategic position since Roman times, linking the interior of Spain with the Atlantic coast.

How did Astorga begin?

The city was founded under Emperor Augustus as Asturica Augusta, a military camp that grew into a key administrative center of Roman Hispania. Its importance came from its position on the Via de la Plata, the route connecting southern and northern Spain, and from its proximity to the gold deposits of Las Médulas, from where the metal passed through the city on its way to Rome. Astorga served as the seat of a judicial and administrative district covering what is now Asturias and Galicia, underlining its role as a regional hub rather than a simple garrison outpost.

Why is there a Gaudí building in Astorga?

The city's best-known landmark is the Episcopal Palace, built between 1889 and 1913 to a design by Antoni Gaudí. It is one of only three buildings the architect completed outside Catalonia, commissioned by Bishop Juan Bautista Grau — a fellow native of Gaudí's home region — after a fire destroyed the previous residence. Gaudí designed the exterior to resemble a fortified castle, complete with battlements and turrets, while the interior functions more like a sacred space, including a chapel and details echoing church architecture. The white granite façade and its soaring towers set the palace sharply apart from the older buildings surrounding it.

What can visitors see inside the palace?

Since 1964 the building has housed the Museo de los Caminos, a museum dedicated to the history of the Way of St. James and the artistic heritage of the Astorga diocese. The collection includes Romanesque and Gothic carvings, altarpieces, processional crosses, and depictions of St. James, alongside archaeological sections covering the Roman and medieval periods. Together, the exhibits trace the centuries of pilgrims, merchants, and officials who passed through the city, and how each era left its mark.

What role does Astorga play on the Camino de Santiago?

Astorga is the point where two major Spanish pilgrimage routes converge: the Via de la Plata, arriving from the south, and the Camino Francés, the most popular route to Santiago de Compostela. For centuries, pilgrims have used the city as a resting point before tackling the more demanding mountain stretch through the Montes de León. Beyond the palace, the nearby Gothic cathedral is worth a look — together the two buildings form the city's most recognizable skyline.

Frequently asked questions

Can you go inside the Episcopal Palace in Astorga? Yes, the building operates as a museum (Museo de los Caminos) and is open to visitors during regular opening hours.

What makes Astorga different from other towns on the Camino de Santiago? It's the meeting point of two separate pilgrimage routes, the Via de la Plata and the Camino Francés, giving it a unique role as a crossroads for pilgrims arriving from different parts of Spain.

Where does the name Asturica Augusta come from? It dates back to Roman times, named after Emperor Augustus, under whose rule the city was established as a military camp guarding the Via de la Plata and the nearby gold deposits.

How many other Gaudí buildings exist outside Catalonia? The Episcopal Palace in Astorga is one of only three structures Gaudí designed outside his home region, making it a rare example of his work in Castilla y León.