Moulin du Verger

Moulin du Verger is a working paper mill in Puymoyen, tucked into the Eaux Claires valley just south of Angoulême in the Charente department. It is one of the few places in France where paper is still made entirely by hand, following methods that trace back to the Renaissance.

Why is this mill significant for paper history?

The Angoumois region was once one of France's great papermaking centres, and Moulin du Verger is a surviving link to that industry. The mill was founded in 1539 under King Francis I, making it one of the earliest paper works established in the area. In 1635 it was fully rebuilt by Deric Jansen, a Dutch paper merchant, who brought Northern European production know-how to the Charente.

How did the mill's technology evolve over the centuries?

Records from 1669 show the mill operating with four paddle wheels and two production vats, a considerable scale for the period. A key turning point came in 1761, when the Marquis de Montalembert trialled the "Hollander" system here — a rotating drum fitted with blades that replaced the traditional hammer batteries used to pulp rags into paper stock. It was among the earliest tests of this technology in France. In the second half of the 19th century, the mill adapted again, producing cardboard on a round-mould machine to keep pace with shifting demand.

What happens at the mill today?

Moulin du Verger has never become a museum piece frozen in time — paper is still produced there by hand, with a water turbine driving the machinery just as it has for generations. The sheets it produces are prized for their quality and texture, and are sought after for luxury book editions, artists, and bookbinders. A hand bookbinding workshop also operates on site, pairing traditional papermaking with old-fashioned book construction.

Can visitors tour the mill?

Yes. Although it remains a privately owned business, the mill is open to the public year-round. A visit typically takes in the production workshop, the drying room, and an exhibition gallery that walks through the history and process of papermaking. Visitors can watch the different stages of the craft in person — from pulping the raw material, to forming a sheet on the mould, to drying it. Because opening hours can shift with the season, it's worth checking the current schedule before setting off.

What is the mill's heritage status?

Moulin du Verger was listed as a historic monument (monument historique) in 1991, recognising its importance to France's industrial and craft heritage. It stands out as a rare example of a mill that not only survived industrialisation but has kept producing by traditional methods without interruption, while preserving equipment and buildings from several different eras of its history.

Who is this visit best suited for?

The mill appeals to anyone curious about craft trades and industrial history, paper and bookbinding enthusiasts, and travellers looking for a quieter, lesser-known corner of the Angoulême area — the setting itself, in the green, secluded Eaux Claires valley, is part of the appeal.

Frequently asked questions

Is paper still made at Moulin du Verger today? Yes, the mill continues to produce paper entirely by hand using a water turbine, and its output supplies luxury book publishers and bookbinding workshops.

When was the mill founded? The original mill dates to 1539, under Francis I; the current building results from a full rebuild in 1635 by Deric Jansen.

Can visitors tour the mill on their own? The mill is privately owned but open to visitors throughout the year — it's best to check current opening hours before you go.

What else is there to see besides paper production? Alongside the workshop and drying room, the site includes a hand bookbinding studio and an exhibition gallery devoted to the region's papermaking history.