MACVAC Vicente Aguilera Cerni Museum of Contemporary Art. Villafamés

MACVAC – the Vicente Aguilera Cerni Museum of Contemporary Art is one of the standout cultural stops in Vilafamés, a small hilltop town in the province of Castellón. The museum occupies the Palacio del Batlle, a 15th-century Gothic palace, and ranks among the very first institutions in Spain devoted entirely to contemporary art.

How did the museum come about?

The story starts in 1968, when art critic and theorist Vicente Aguilera Cerni fell for Vilafamés and decided to turn it into a home for avant-garde art. From the outset the institution worked on an unusual model: instead of buying pieces outright, it accepts them on loan from artists and collectors. That arrangement keeps the collection rotating and was, at the time, a genuinely pioneering approach in Europe.

What will you actually see inside?

The holdings run to nearly 700 pieces — paintings, drawings, prints and sculpture — by artists who count as reference points of the Spanish and international avant-garde. Names on display include figures as significant as Pablo Picasso, Joan Miró and Oswaldo Guayasamín, alongside many lesser-known but historically important 20th-century artists. The palace itself adds another layer of interest: stone vaults, an inner courtyard and Gothic arches create a striking contrast with the bold modern art hung on the walls.

How do you get to MACVAC?

Vilafamés sits in the hilly inland stretch of Castellón province, roughly 25 km from the coast and the city of Castellón de la Plana. Driving is the easiest option — local roads wind through hills covered in olive groves and vineyards. The museum stands in the historic centre, up on the hill, so the final stretch is on foot along narrow stone lanes; comfortable shoes are a good idea. Parking is available at the edge of the old town.

What else should you know before visiting?

The museum runs a small shop selling prints and reproductions by the artists in the collection, a popular way to take a piece of the visit home. MACVAC also offers guided tours, educational workshops and family activities, making it a good fit not just for art lovers but for visitors with children too. It's worth pairing the visit with a walk through Vilafamés itself, widely regarded as one of the prettiest towns in the region, complete with a castle, a parish church and a maze of medieval streets.

How much time should you set aside?

Touring the exhibition itself takes about 1–1.5 hours, but combined with a walk through the old town and a stop at the viewpoints over the valley, it's worth blocking out half a day. Spring and autumn are the best seasons to visit, with milder temperatures and light that flatters the stone architecture.

Frequently asked questions

Is MACVAC only for art experts? No — the exhibition is easy to follow even without an art background, and guides explain the historical context of the works. The building itself is worth the visit regardless of your interest in contemporary art.

Are there works by famous artists in the collection? Yes, the collection includes pieces by artists such as Pablo Picasso, Joan Miró and Oswaldo Guayasamín, alongside hundreds of other avant-garde names.

Can you combine the museum with sightseeing in the town? Absolutely — MACVAC sits right in the historic centre of Vilafamés, so it naturally fits into a walk through the old streets and nearby viewpoints.

How do you get there without a car? The simplest route is from Castellón de la Plana, which has local buses running to Vilafamés; the trip takes around 40–50 minutes, so it's worth checking the current timetable before setting off.