Esha Ness Lighthouse

Esha Ness Lighthouse sits at the western tip of the Northmavine peninsula on Shetland's Mainland, in the far north of Scotland. It stands above the Eshaness cliffs, fully open to the Atlantic, beside the narrow sea inlet of Calder's Geo. It is one of Shetland's most popular sights and takes about an hour to reach by car from Lerwick.

What is the story behind the lighthouse?

The current tower was built between 1925 and 1929 to a design by David Alan Stevenson, from the Stevenson family of lighthouse engineers, for the Northern Lighthouse Board. It is a tapering square tower about 12 metres tall, made of concrete because local stone was unsuitable. It is regarded as the last Northern Lighthouse Board light designed by a Stevenson.

Before it, a temporary acetylene light operated here from 1915, installed at the Admiralty's request. Its job was to warn shipping about the Ve Skerries reef, where around fifteen vessels were lost in the 18th and 19th centuries. The light was automated in 1974 and the keeper's house passed into private hands. The lighthouse is now owned by the Shetland Amenity Trust. Visitors normally view it from outside, and the car park beside it is the best vantage point.

What can you see nearby?

Eshaness is the remains of a volcano roughly 360 to 400 million years old. The cliffs expose bands of lava and ash, which is why the area belongs to the Shetland UNESCO Global Geopark and is protected as an SSSI. Highlights include:

• Holes of Scraada – collapsed sea caves about 100 metres inland, where the sea surges in over a stony beach.
• Dore Holm – a large natural rock arch just offshore between Tangwick and Stenness, often compared to a pony drinking.
• Grind o da Navir – a cliff fissure where waves pound in, most impressively in a storm.
• Tangwick Haa Museum – a late 17th-century laird's house, now a museum of Northmavine's history.

How do you get there?

Drive north from Lerwick, then take the B9078 west from Hillswick to the road end by the lighthouse. Public transport is very limited, so a car or a tour with a local guide is the practical choice.

What is the best walk?

The Eshaness Circular covers about 6 km and takes around 3 hours, though it is easy to cut short. It starts at the lighthouse car park and follows the cliff tops north. Wear sturdy boots, as wet grass is slippery, and keep well back from the edge in wind.

When should you visit?

Summer brings very long daylight and the mildest weather. Autumn and winter offer the most dramatic waves, but the wind can be fierce and daylight short. Pack a windproof layer in any season.

Frequently asked questions

Can you go inside Esha Ness Lighthouse? The light is automatic and the interior is not a standard visitor attraction. You can view it freely from outside and from the surrounding cliffs.

How long should you allow? Allow 30 to 45 minutes for the lighthouse itself. The full Eshaness Circular walk takes about 3 hours.

Is there a bus? Public transport is very limited. Driving or booking a guided tour works best.

Who owns the lighthouse? The Shetland Amenity Trust owns it, and the light has been automatic since 1974.