Château de Retz

Château de Retz is a set of medieval fortress ruins hidden in the Marly forest, within the commune of Feucherolles in the Yvelines department, not far from Paris. Little remains today beyond a moat and the outline of old foundations, but the site's story stretches back to the early 13th century and is closely tied to the defense of the French capital during the darkest years of the Hundred Years' War.

How did the castle come to be?

The fortress, originally known as "chastel de Roye," was built around 1215 by Barthélemy de Roye on his return from the Battle of Bouvines. He raised his residence deep in what was then the Cruye forest, which later became the forest of Marly. What started as a knight's home quickly grew into a genuine stronghold once Paris needed protection from English incursions.

What role did it play in the Hundred Years' War?

Château de Retz was one of five fortified points forming the defensive line of the Cruye forest, alongside the castles of Hennemont, Béthemont, La Montjoie, and Sainte-Gemme. Together they were meant to shield the western approach to Paris. In 1346, English forces under the command of the Black Prince burned the castle along with the nearby Abbey of Joyenval. It was later rebuilt by King Charles V the Wise, who stayed there on several occasions. The peace did not last: in 1431 the castle and the neighboring village of Saint-Jacques de Retz suffered fresh English attacks.

What happened to the castle afterward?

Around 1485, King Louis XI granted the seigneury of Retz to his squire and master cook, Pierre Cœuret. The Cœuret family took over the estate, but the castle itself did not fare well in the following centuries — it was destroyed in the 17th century under Louis XIV, and later completely razed under Louis XV to clear space for hunting grounds in the Marly forest.

What can you actually see on site today?

What survives of the old stronghold is mainly a clearly visible moat and the footprint of the site where the castle once stood. The ruins lie north of the hamlet of Valmartin, close to the A13 motorway and the long-distance GR1 hiking trail. This is a spot for history enthusiasts and forest walkers rather than for anyone hoping for a dramatic ruin — the setting itself is quiet and wooded rather than spectacular.

How do you get there?

The easiest way to reach the site is on foot, as part of a walk through the Marly forest. A popular hiking loop of roughly 7.5 kilometers passes through the grounds of the former stronghold and connects with the GR1 trail. It's a good option for anyone planning a longer walk around Feucherolles and Chavenay, pairing local history with a stretch of forest scenery.

When is the best time to visit?

Given the forest location, spring and autumn are the best times to visit: the paths stay drier and the tree cover is lighter, making the moat and remaining outlines easier to spot. In summer, an early morning or late afternoon walk helps avoid the heat, while winter visits can mean muddy trails after rain.

Frequently asked questions

Is there anything left of the castle to actually see? Not much, but something — mainly the moat, still clearly traceable, and the outline of the ground where the fortress once stood. There are no walls or towers left standing.

Can you reach the site without a car? Yes, the best approach is on foot via the forest trails, including the GR1, which passes close to the ruins.

Why didn't the castle survive intact? It was destroyed in the 17th century under Louis XIV and then completely demolished under Louis XV to free up land for hunting in the Marly forest.

Is it worth combining with other nearby sights? Yes — the ruins sit along a hiking loop through the western part of the Marly forest, making them easy to pair with a visit to the Feucherolles and Chavenay area in a single outing.