Ayuntamiento de Cetina

Cetina is a small village in the province of Zaragoza, in the Calatayud region, sitting on the right bank of the Jalón River at the point where it meets the Mesa River. The village is best known for its imposing castle-palace and for a distinctive folk tradition, and its roots trace back to the medieval struggles over the borders of the Kingdom of Aragón.

How to get to Cetina?

Cetina lies in the western part of Zaragoza province, along the historic route linking the Meseta plateau with the Ebro valley. Driving is by far the easiest option — the village sits close to the main roads heading toward Calatayud, from where connections fan out across the wider region. The Jalón river valley has served as a natural travel corridor for centuries, so reaching Cetina even from more distant Aragonese towns is straightforward.

What can you see?

The castle-palace of Cetina

The village's main attraction is the castle-palace overlooking the river valley. It was built in the 13th century and underwent a significant renovation in 1429. Inside, four Mudejar-style ceiling beams survive — a valuable trace of the cultural blending typical of the Iberian Peninsula. The building also preserves a small palace chapel decorated with rich Mudejar stuccowork and a 16th-century triptych. It was in this very chapel that, on 26 February 1634, the writer Francisco de Quevedo married Esperanza de Mendoza, lady of Cetina. The castle was declared a National Historical-Artistic Monument by decree on 3 June 1931. Note that the interior is currently closed to visitors — the building can only be admired from the outside, though its massive, fortress-like silhouette is impressive enough on its own.

The church of San Juan Bautista

Standing on the same cliff as the castle, right above the Jalón valley, is the church of San Juan Bautista. Together with the palace, it forms the striking skyline that greets visitors as they approach the village.

On the Camino del Cid route

Cetina is mentioned in the medieval epic poem "Cantar de Mío Cid" and forms one of the stops on the Camino del Cid, a cultural-tourist route tracing the legendary knight's exile. The town was conquered by Alfonso I "the Battler", king of Aragón, and its castle and walls once played a key defensive role along the kingdom's borders.

When to visit?

The best time to visit is May, when Cetina holds its Fiestas de San Juan Lorenzo. The festivities feature two unique folk dances — the Danza and the Contradanza. The latter, performed at night on 19 May by torchlight, has been recognized as intangible cultural heritage. Eight masked dancers dressed as skeletons in black and white perform the dance, led by a ninth figure dressed in red who represents the devil. It's a striking spectacle rarely seen elsewhere in the region and well worth timing a trip around.

Frequently asked questions

Can you go inside the castle in Cetina? No, the interior of the castle-palace is currently closed to the public. You can only view it from the outside, walking around its walls and the surrounding area.

What is Cetina's connection to Francisco de Quevedo? The writer Francisco de Quevedo married Esperanza de Mendoza, then lady of Cetina, in the castle's chapel on 26 February 1634.

What is the Contradanza of Cetina? It's a nighttime torchlit dance performed on 19 May during the Fiestas de San Juan Lorenzo by eight dancers dressed as skeletons, led by a figure representing the devil. It has been recognized as intangible cultural heritage.

Is Cetina historically significant? Yes — the town is mentioned in the "Cantar de Mío Cid" and lies along the Camino del Cid route. It was conquered by Alfonso I the Battler, and its castle and walls defended the borders of the Kingdom of Aragón during the Middle Ages.